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Find Important Informations
About French Polynesia
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French Polynesia
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The islands of French Polynesia are a selection of volcanic islands and atolls strewn across the eastern South Pacific. These islands have allured, inspired and enamoured visitors since the time the islands were first discovered. Visiting these islands is a special experience. The lure of these islands is not only due to the hospitable Polynesian people, and their spectacularly beautiful islands. There is real ambiance here - from the warmth of the air, scented heavily with tropical flowers through to fiery romantic sunsets that signal the end of another fabulous Tahitian day. Although most of today's visitors arrive by scheduled airline flights - from all over the world - the Tahitian welcome is still very much the same, warm, friendly, and genuine. |
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The 118 islands of French Polynesia were born from volcanoes some 20 million years ago. The islands in the Society, Marquesas, Austral and Gambier Island groups remained high islands, while the islands of the Tuamotu Islands group became atolls. Atolls are islands that have long since sunk below the ocean surface, leaving only the barrier reef. The total land area of the islands is equivalent to the total area of Europe.
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The remoteness of the islands of Polynesia kept the people insulated from the rest of the world until European world travel began in the 1700's. Polynesian origins are believed to be in the area of Southeast Asia, more precisely the eastern are of Indonesia or the Phillipines some 4,000 years ago. The early Polynesians were master navigators. Their migrations took them through Melanesia to the eastern edge of Polynesia. The Polynesians settled in Polynesia between 1000 BC and 1000 AD. Polynesia is roughly described as the "triangle" with the northern point in the islands of Hawai'i, the southeast at Easter Island, and to the southwest at New Zealand.
The Polynesian migration lasted about 2000 years. Not all Polynesian cultures are exactly alike. Adaptation to different island groups as well as the great distances between islands of Polynesia resulted in similarities and differences in the culture, languages, religion, daily practices and forms of artistic expression.
Spanish explorers discovered the Marquesas Islands in 1595. However, true contact between the Polynesians and European explorers did not begin until the discovery of Tahiti by the Englishman Wallis in 1767. These contacts resulted in an upheaval of the economic and social structure of the Polynesians. The Christianization by Protestant and Catholic missionaries resulted in the abandonment of traditional religious practices and places of worship, "marae".
After decades of rivalries between Britain and France over the ownership of the islands of Tahiti, France declared the islands as a protectorate in 1843. In 1944, the islands were declared to be an overseas territory of France.
On October 25, 1946, a decree by France allowed the Polynesians to manage their own public matters, while still maintaining institutional control. On July 22, 1957, the terrorial assembly is instituted in "French Polynesia" with control over such affairs as commerce, transportation, and education. In December 1958, France reclaims some of the controls lost to the formation of the territorial assembly the previous year. But in 1977, the responsibilities of the territorial assembly are returned to their 1957 level.
A law passed on September 6, 1984, begins the first real move toward autonomy for French Polynesia. The statute recognized the identity and personality of French Polynesia, allowing it to its distinctive signs (such as flag and national anthem). The position of President of the Government is established, which placed local control of the government. The local government was also allowed to enter into international agreements. Additonal local government responsibilities were secondary education, postal and telecommunications.
Additional autonomy was granted in 1996 and 1998. Today, French Polynesia is largely responsible for its own affairs, with some responsibilities remaining with France, such as currency and defense.
RECENT HISTORY
Before European colonization, the islands were ruled by local chiefs. The Pomare Dynasty reigned over Tahiti until Queen Pomare IV, under considerable pressure, signed a treaty with France in 1843, making it a French protectorate. Her son abdicated in 1880, and the islands became a colony of France.
In 1957 French Polynesia became a French overseas territory, further constitutional changes in 1977, 1984, and 1990 increased local autonomy. In 1992 France suspended its controversial programme of nuclear testing in the area (the first test had been in 1966), but in 1995 and 1996 a further series of tests was carried out. France signed the South Pacific Nuclear Free Zone Treaty in 1996.
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Tourism is now the most important sector of the economy, and tourist services account for the majority of the gross domestic product (GDP). Agriculture, although contributing only a small proportion of the GDP, is the main export earner. Tahiti produces copra and coconut oil, mother-of-pearl, vanilla, coffee, and various foods for domestic consumption. Commercial fishing, mostly under licence to Japanese and South Korean fleets, is another significant business.
For many years, the Centre Experimental du Pacifique (CEP), France's nuclear testing programme, was an important economic contributor for Tahiti, providing stable jobs and additional revenue. Following France's suspension of the programme, a compensation package amounting to more than US$600 million to be paid over five years (and a sum to be negotiated over the five years after that) was accepted in 1993. The currency is the Comptoirs Français du Pacifique (CFP) franc. It has a fixed value to the French Franc of 18.18 CFP/FRF.
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Tahiti, and most of French Polynesia, was initially inhabited by Polynesians, whose ancestors had developed their culture on more westerly Pacific islands between 2000 and 1000 BC. The first Polynesians reached the Society Islands group (of which Tahiti is part) by at least the 9th century AD, and possibly centuries earlier than this.
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About 78 percent of the people are Polynesian, many of whom have some Chinese or European ancestry; 10 per cent are French, and 12 per cent are Chinese—descendants of labourers brought to work in the cotton industry in the 19th century. The cotton industry failed and now the Chinese control much of Tahiti's retail and shipping trade. French Polynesia includes 130 islands, with more than half of the population living on Tahiti. Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, is the largest city. |
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LANGUAGES
French is the official language in the territory. It is used exclusively at school and is spoken widely on Tahiti. Tahitian, however, is an official regional language of the Society Islands. It remains the language used by the majority of the people and is spoken in the home, although less often on Tahiti than on the other Society Islands. The Tahitian alphabet has 13 letters; in Tahitian, all syllables end with a vowel. The Chinese community speaks the Hakka dialect of Chinese, as well as French or Tahitian. English is not widely spoken, although it is understood in areas that cater for tourists. Each of the different island groups in French Polynesia has its own language, some of which are similar to Tahitian and some of which are very different.
RELIGION
Tahitians no longer worship the many gods of nature they once did, but they are still influenced by traditional beliefs. Members of the London Missionary Society arrived in the late 18th century; other missionaries followed, and the islanders were soon converted to Christianity, which continues to play an important part in their lives. Currently, 55 per cent of the population is Protestant, about 30 per cent is Roman Catholic, 6 per cent belongs to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormon), and 2 per cent is Seventh-Day Adventist. There are small minorities of other Christians, Jews, and Buddhists.
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Marriage and Family
Tahitian families often used to be large, usually with many children and several generations sharing a home. Couples may still live with the husband's or wife's parents for a time after marriage, but increased contact with western culture has led to a trend towards nuclear families. Family ties are very strong. In Polynesian culture, children are highly valued and their upbringing is often shared by grandparents or other sets of adoptive parents (faamu).
In the past, marriage partners were chosen by the family, but today young people have greater freedom in choosing partners. The tradition of celebrating marriages with feasts and festivities still endures. |
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Diet and Eating
Tahitians eat three meals a day. The main meal is eaten in the middle of the day. Breakfast usually consists of bread and a hot drink. The evening meal is also light, except when it is a special occasion or when people are dining in a restaurant. The Tahitian diet consists of fish and other seafood, chicken, pork, sweet potatoes, breadfruit, rice, and local fruit and vegetables such as papaya, mangoes, pineapples, bananas, and fafa, a type of spinach.
Banana or papaya po'e (purées) are often baked, covered with sugar and coconut milk, and served hot for dessert. Coconut milk is also used in chicken or pork casseroles that contain fafa. Fish is often marinated before being baked or grilled. Poisson cru is raw fish marinated in lime juice, often served as part of a salad. On special occasions people have a traditional feast (tama'ara'a). |
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People in Tahiti enjoy Chinese cooking and French and other Western cuisine, as well as traditional indigenous foods. Etiquette varies according to family practices and the kind of dishes being eaten. Traditional Tahitian food is eaten with the fingers, Chinese food with chopsticks, and Western food with knives and forks. Although it may be considered impolite to refuse an offer of food, leaving some food on the plate ensures that further helpings are not served and reassures the host that the guest has been well fed. |
Socializing
Tahitians shake hands when they meet, and use French greetings such as Bonjour (“Good day”) in formal situations. It is impolite not to shake hands with every person in a small gathering. Women might kiss each other on the cheek when greeting, especially after a long separation. A traditional Tahitian phrase of welcome is Ia orana!
Tahitians (and French Polynesians in general) emphasize joie de vivre, or “joy of life”. A favourite maxim is, “If you act like old friends when you first meet, you will soon feel that you are.”. Tahitian hospitality is such that guests may be offered a meal and the host family will watch them enjoy it, but not eat themselves. Compliments on the hosts’ family and home are welcomed, but a guest might cause embarrassment if he or she singles out a specific item for praise. It is customary to remove one’s shoes before entering the home.
Recreation
Tahitians spend much of their free time socializing, and parties and other festivities play an important part in their lives. Soccer is the national sport, but Tahitians participate in many others, such as boxing, volleyball, basketball, canoeing, windsurfing, swimming, fishing, and diving. Other popular recreational activities include watching television, going to the cinema, and dancing.
Holidays and Celebrations
National holidays include New Year's Day (1 January), Easter Monday, Labour Day (1 May), Ascension, Pentecost Monday, National Bastille Day (14 July), the Feast of the Assumption (15 August), Toussaint (All Saints' Day, 1 November), Armistice Day (11 November), and Christmas Day (25 December). In France, Bastille Day commemorates the storming of the Bastille in 1789, at the start of the French Revolution. In Tahiti, the Tiurai (July) festivities, which take place during the middle two weeks of the month, provide an opportunity to celebrate Tahitian culture. Festivities include parades, athletics events, dancing, and cultural events. Dance and song competitions are popular, especially during Heiva Taupiti, a season of celebrations that begins in May and culminates with the Tiurai. |
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The Moorea Marathon is held in early February, and there's a re-enactment of the arrival of the first London Missionary Society missionaries at Point Venus in Papeete on 5 March with celebrations in Tahiti's and Moorea's Protestant churches. Tahitians love beauty contests and there are events organised for both men and women throughout most of the year, and these culminate in the prestigious Miss Heiva i Tahiti contest in July. The month-long Heiva i Tahiti festival also features music, dancing, sporting competitions and arts & crafts displays. French Bastille Day, 14 July, falls in the middle of this festival and is the highlight. A four-day golf tournament is held on Tahiti in late June and early July, the Heiva No Te Pahu Nui O Tahaa stone-fishing festival takes place on Tahaa during the last week of October and there's a surfing contest off Tahiti in September.
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However, what draws the whole of French Polynesia to a standstill is a canoe race. The Hawaiki Nui canoe race is a three-day, four-island, 116km event, held in early November, that pits about 60 six-man teams from all over the territory and abroad against each other. Burly Polynesian men, often bedecked in traditional tattoos, begin from the island of Huahine and cross 44.5km of open ocean to Raiatea. Day two is a 20km sprint within the lagoon between the twin islands of Raiatea and Tahaa, and day three is a mammoth 52km open-ocean crossing to the island of Bora Bora. The vessels arrive to the rhythm of drummers and cheering supporters, and TV camera crews wade out to get the footage that will be broadcast across the territory on the evening news. In 1994 a German team of Olympic kayakers entered the race and their best result was 18th on the first leg. |
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The missionaries did all they could to wipe out traditional Polynesian culture by levelling temples, destroying carvings, and banning tattoos and that heady, erotic dancing that Bougainville told Europe about. The missionaries sought to make the Polynesians follow the teachings of the Good Book and their own autocratic commandments, but fortunately some of the traditional ways survived. Recently there's been a strong push to revive old ways and rediscover traditional arts. Traditional musical instruments include pahu and toere drums and the curious nose flute called a vivo. Guitars and ukuleles made their way into Polynesia and the locals developed a unique song style that owes much to country & western music in form but has a distinctive South Pacific island groove. Customary dancing (tamure) has slowly made its way back into French Polynesian life, but, sadly, the art of making tapa (bark paper and cloth), practised throughout the Pacific, has all but disappeared. |
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Things are pretty laid back in French Polynesia - dress standards are relaxed even in the classiest restaurants and beach wear is often just from the waist down. Church is deadly serious though and Sunday is the day of worship (fully clothed). The Polynesian concept of family is a much broader one than in the West - cousins, uncles, aunts etc are all part of the scene and are called fetii. The family might also have adopted children, faaamu, and children are commonly entrusted to relatives or childless women.
French Polynesia has a unique culinary tradition, with old South Pacific cooking methods combining with French gastronomy and Italian and Chinese influences. This manifests itself not just in the flashy restaurants but also in the cheap roadside mobile snack bars, les roulottes. Food is still cooked in traditional pit ovens that are common throughout the Pacific. A hole is dug in the ground, stones are placed within it and then a fire is lit to heat the stones. The food, wrapped in banana leaves, is placed on top, and then the hole is filled in again with earth. The baking process takes several hours. In French Polynesia this kind of oven is called an ahimaa and the feast is called a tamaaraa. |
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The French government has established primary, secondary, and vocational schools that comply with French educational standards. School is compulsory and free for eight years from the age of 6 to 14. Private schools are heavily subsidized by the government and follow the national curriculum. Adult education is free and popular. Many students travel to France or other countries for higher education.
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French Polynesia has some beautiful beaches, lagoons and open ocean, and it's the water-based activities most visitors come for. The region is a mecca for divers who come to see the rich and abundant marine life in warm pristine waters and for some unusual diving environments. The passes and lagoon of Rangiroa in the Tuamotus are a justly famous diving location. Those who prefer to float can strap on a snorkel and mask and experience the vibrant and giddy underworld without leaving the water's surface.
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Tahiti is the birth place of surfing and there are popular breaks at Papenoo, Punaauia, and Paea. Other islands, particularly Huahine and Moorea, offer surfers clean consistent swell in warm uncrowded waters. The October-to-March period brings swells from the north and between April and September southerly winds bring heavy swells up from the Antarctic region.
Walkers and climbers will enjoy the high islands throughout the region and 4WD enthusiasts can hire vehicles in Papeete and other larger towns. Equestrian types can massage saddle-sores after a day's ride across the mountains and plateaus of many of the islands, and in the Marquesas horse riding is still the way a lot of local people get about. There are opportunities for hang-gliders and fans of parapente around the Tahitian island and Papeete has clubs and facilities for enthusiasts.
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French Polynesia is an overseas territory of France. The head of state is the president of France, who is represented by a high commissioner, but there is considerable local autonomy. The territory has two representatives in France's National Assembly and one in France's Senate. The executive branch consists of a Council of Ministers, headed by a president; the Territorial Assembly has 41 elected members. The voting age is 18.
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The 118 islands of French Polynesia are specks in the vast South Pacific Ocean. They are divided into five groups: the Society Islands (which include Tahiti), the Tuamotus, the Marquesas, the Australs and the Gambiers. Only six of the islands are larger than 100 sq km, and the northernmost island, Hatutu, is more than 2000km from the southernmost island, Rapa. The nearest continental land masses are Australia, 5200km to the west, and South America, 6000km to the east. The territory's nearest Pacific neighbour is the Cook Islands, to the west.
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The islands are a mixture of volcanic high islands and coral atolls. The high islands have rich, fertile soil and support a much wider diversity of vegetation than the atolls. Magnificent Tahitian tiare flowers grow abundantly on the high islands and these are woven into leis (flowers necklaces) or worn in the hair. Many introduced flora species exist in the region, including hibiscus and bougainvillea. Most of the land-based creatures were introduced and include wild pigs and fowl, semi-domesticated goats in the Marquesas, and sheep on Tahiti, the Australs and the Marquesas. Small geckos abound and there are large centipedes that have a decent sting. French Polynesia has around 100 species of birds, including terns, petrels, noddies and frigatebirds. The abundance and diversity of marine life is immediately obvious when you poke you head underwater.
French Polynesia's tropical climate has two distinct seasons. The wet season, between November and April, has average temperatures around 27°-30°C with high humidity, ample rain (75% of the annual rainfall) and brief, violent storms. The dry season, between May and October, has little rain, drier air and slightly cooler temperatures. There are prevailing winds which can blow with a force of 40 to 60km/h. The maraamu is a south-easterly that is common in the dry season, and the toerau is a north-north-easterly that blows occasionally in the wet season. |
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Tahiti
Papeete has something of an image problem. French Polynesia's busy port capital does have heavy rush-hour traffic and ugly concrete developments, but it also has a beautiful waterfront where yachts, ferries and cargo boats come and go, and a thriving market full of South Pacific atmosphere. There are abundant cafés, mobile snack vans and eateries along this strip and it's a lovely place to mill about and soak up the scene. Legacies of the region's maritime history are all over the place and the ghosts of Bougainville and Cook have an omnipresence along Papeete's coast.
The market, Marché du Papeete, is a colourful and vibrant place, and on Sunday morning it's at its busiest. The market covers a whole city block just back from the waterfront. The original buildings were erected in 1847, but after a series of expansions and redevelopments the market was destroyed by shelling from German cruisers during WWI. It has been rebuilt twice since then and is now an airy two-storey structure with fruit, vegetables, meat and fish downstairs, and clothes and arts & crafts upstairs.
A few kilometres inland of Papeete is the famous Bain Loti (Loti's Bath or Pool). Pierre Loti's 1880 novel The Marriage of Loti had the hero and the beautiful Rarahu meet at this pool in the verdant surrounds of the Fautaua River. It's no longer the bucolic scene of Pierre Loti's days but it's still a pleasant place and a favourite swimming spot for locals, and Pierre's bust oversees all. Tahiti's lush and rugged interior offers endless possibilities for walkers and mountain climbers, from the leisurely to the very strenuous, and reveals a landscape of soaring peaks that rise to Mt Orohena at 2241m. There are also plateaus, waterfalls, lava tubes and Polynesian relics - including the ruined temples, tikis and petroglyphs of Marae Arahurahu.
Bora Bora
For many, the highlight of French Polynesia is the high island of Bora Bora. Some regard it as the most beautiful island in the Pacific because of its lush-green volcanic peaks, huge lagoon, and the chain of sandy motus flanking its coast. Bora Bora is not without its blemishes: some failed tourist developments blight the landscape, but it is as near as it gets to that postcard-perfect tropical island. People come to dive in the fish and coral-filled lagoon, explore the interior by foot or 4WD, and climb the three impressive peaks, Hue (619m - 2000ft), Pahia (661m - 2165ft) and Otemanu (727m - 2380ft).
Rangiroa
Rangiroa, in the Tuamotu Archipelago, is the second-biggest atoll in the world, behind Kwajalein in Micronesia. It measures 75km by 25km (46mi by 15mi) and is the most populated island in the archipelago. Its lagoon is more like a vast inland sea and dry land exists as a narrow chain of sandy motus encircling this huge waterway. Divers come from all over the world to Rangiroa and the configuration of the lagoon is such that the rise and fall of the tide causes powerful currents that divers 'surf'. There's a great abundance and diversity of marine life within the lagoon. Pearl farming and mother-of-pearl production are important to the local economy.
Hiva Oa
The Marquesian island of Hiva Oa was once the administrative capital of the Marquesas but now those duties are handled by Nuku Hiva to the north. Hiva Oa still dominates the southern group of the archipelago and is the island where both Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer/poet Jacques Brel finally settled. There are relics and monuments to both men in the main town of Atuona, and Calvaire cemetery, where both were laid to rest, is a place of pilgrimage - particularly for Brel fans. Atuona is dramatically set against the backdrop of Mt Temetiu (1213m - 4000ft) and Mt Feani (1126m - 3700ft) and the island has many archaeological sites, petroglyphs and giant stone tikis.
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Medical treatment is generally good on the major islands, but is limited in areas that are more remote or less populated. Patients with emergencies or with serious illnesses are often referred to facilities on Tahiti for treatment. In Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, two major hospitals as well as several private clinics provide 24-hour medical service. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.
Medical services are subsidized by the government and are adequate for most needs. Health conditions are generally good and are improving.
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Visas: Only French citizens can enter French Polynesia without a passport and the visa requirements are much the same as for France itself. Western European and Scandinavian citizens are allowed to stay for up to three months without a visa. Citizens of Canada, the USA, Japan, Singapore and New Zealand can stay up to one month without a visa, but all other visitors need a visa to enter.
Health risks: None
Climate: Sunny and pleasant year round. Average 26ºC. Humid weather December-March.
Clothing: Casual. 'Pareus' are popular worn over costumes to the beach or around the pool. Papeete is more cosmopolitan.
Time: GMT minus 10 hours. AEST minus 20 hours. Two hours behind US Pacific Standard time. The Marquesas Islands are a half hour ahead of the rest of French Polynesia.
Electricity: Most hotels use 110 or 220 volts, AC 60 cycles.
Weights & measures: Metric
Currency: Cour de Franc Pacifique (CFP) - fixed rate to the French Franc [1 FrF = 18,18 CFP)
Tipping: No tipping.
Departure tax: There is no departure tax. |
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